Rome, the Eternal City

Yesterday started in the line, for the Vatican… Even though we were early and in a group there was still a bit of a line… It took around 30min to get to security before we could enter the Vatican City.

Our guide for the day was an Italian lady named Franka. We were all given “Whispers” (small radio receivers with a headphone) so we could always hear our guide without requiring them to yell, particularly helpful in the quiet places. We had approximately 35 in our group.

Anyway, the Vatican Museum was quite good with the various vases, statues, fresco’s and tapestries, a large collection indeed, especially since only a small proportion were on display.

Next stop, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel. We weren’t allowed to make noise. For copyright reasons, photos were not permitted in the church (as dictated by the financiers of the restoration)… of course flash photography wouldn’t be good for it either. The detail, the colour, the subject matter, the age, amazing!

St. Peter’s Basilica was next. It’s freaking enormous! The term, “no expense spared” is an understatement. Big, big, big. There were crypts, sculptures, marble as far as the eye could see, the columns, the mosaics, two metre high lettering at the base of the dome. History, wow!

It’s phenomenal thinking about how Michelangelo considered his sculpting with marble as “freeing the sculpture from within”… or how detailed the tapestries were, including optical illusions, considering that they were woven… or their ability to duplicate a full coloured painting as a mosaic, all from fine glass pieces!

I can’t describe how awe inspiring these buildings are! They’re huge, enormous structures with outrageous proportions using so much raw material, you can’t imagine. I can’t imagine how they could have even envisioned such scale.

Amazing how influential Michelangelo and Bernini were in Roman art and architecture.

Out the front to the Piazza San Pietro, the very large entrance/courtyard. We also saw the Swiss guards in their gold and deep purple uniform, designed by Michelangelo himself & worn to this day. The pope still only trusts the Swiss guards – due to their bravery and self sacrifice for previous popes in years past.

We then had lunch at a nearby café which was Ok I guess. Then I stopped by the Vatican souvenir shop and picked up some great pictures of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

Next we crossed the Tiber river, noting the Tiber Island in the middle… which is now a hospital – like a modern day maternity ward.

We went past the Circus Maximus where they used to have the chariot races in ancient times. It doesn’t look like much, just a natural rotunda… People sitting in and around. The only evidence if its original purpose is a small section of one of the corners and the two small “towers” at either end.

The Colosseum was grand. We didn’t line up for long. There were the usual tourist stands selling maps and things and of course sellers of scarves and postcard packs… “20 for €1”. I’d never realised that the Colosseum was actually made up of three walls, one inside the other. I also hadn’t realised how “advanced” the floor must have been with the underground cages, lifts and pulley systems. Again, you can’t capture how big these buildings are!

I’m having a brilliant time. There is a high contingent of Australians which is also a comfort since I don’t know anyone. It’s good, they’re looking after me.

It’s funny, I’ve heard a few stories now of others being confronted by beggars and potential pick-pockets and the crowding around they do… I still haven’t experienced it but I put that down to being well aware of your environment… if you are then you’re no longer an easy mark so they don’t bother… Though it’s nothing to worry about, they’re never aggressive.

Anyway, on to the Basilica of St. Sebastian and the Catacombs. Constantine, when he legalized Christianity, built a church on the site where many, many thousands of Christians were buried underground in these cramped dark tunnels three levels deep and covering a massive area, 10 miles if I recall. Interestingly, these weren’t secret tunnels from the Romans, they were the burial grounds, or a cemetery authorised by them. It’s amazing how first it was the site of Roman tombs, then the catacombs, then built up as a dining area and finally a church. They didn’t even know about the Roman tombs ’til recently. Amazing how much can be lost over time.

On the way back to the hotel we drove past various sights, including the Pyramid. Once back, I could rest and relax. These days are quite tiring.

Later that evening we went to the Spanish Steps with its boat fountain (where the water takes off 20 years) then down “Via dei Condotti”. This is a very expensive designer label street. It’s also the place for Romans to strut their stuff as it were. It’s the place to show off your latest clothes and accessories, to make a good impression. There were a lot of people and making a good impression seemed to be their aim. 🙂

On our way again and there was an overgrown wall that was pointed out… It was lost and only recently discovered. It’s the burial place of the first Roman Caesar, Augustus (or Octavian for those familiar with the recent TV series Rome) and his family. That’s the amazing thing, this place is so old that great things are lost due to the time passing!

We then moved onto our “Highlight Dinner”, a traditional Italian meal at the restaurant where the pope and the cardinals eat on occasion, one of the few restaurants permitted to serve Vatican wine. It was nice, first bread, next bruschetta, then pasta, then the meat course then dessert and coffee. All the while drinking red wine. The singers were alright, I didn’t mind the guy but I didn’t like the woman, she looked Russian and her sound wasn’t pleasing.

I apologise for the lack of pictures, it’s too complicated to transfer from camera or iPod then to the phone & hope it posts… My test proved unsuccessful so my text-based commentary will have to do for now. Sorry.

Today, La Spezia and Pisa…